Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers
Easy Even Hems
After hemming hundreds of pants, dresses, and even shirts I have found that the easiest way to get a beautiful straight hem is to draw lines. No, really.
Some materials like acetate are very slippery and difficult to get a very even hem all the way around.
When it comes time to mark the hem, I usually place a pin in the front and back of where the hem needs to be. 1. Measure the Hem: the distance from the edge of the fabric to the fold line.
2. Take the measurement from step 1. Using a clear ruler and a fabric safe marking tool, draw a line the distance of that measurement, parallel to the edge of the fabric all around the hem.
This next step depends on what type of hem you are going to sew.
I like to do either a double fold hem or what I call, a quick enclosed hem. In the following steps I did a quick enclosed hem.
For a quick enclosed hem, I usually fold the top of the fabric down 1/4" or so, fold the hem and finish by edge stitching the hem to the garment.
3. Then draw a second parallel line below the first line. For the 1/4" enclosed hem, draw a line 1/4" up from the edge of the fabric. (For a 2" double fold hem, draw a line 1" up from the fabric edge and 1" below the line drawn in step 2.)
4. Now, fold the edge of the fabric up to meet the first line. Press. Continue this all the way around the hem.
5. Then fold the now folded edge up to meet the the top line you drew in step 2. Press and pin. Continue this all the way around the hem.
6. To finish, stitch hem in place.
Now you have even hems, pretty easy, right?