Mauby's

Announcing My New Nephew!

2012-02-07T10:13:00.000-08:00

Josiah Alister was born yesterday afternoon. A health 7 lbs 4 oz and 20.5" long!

My sister is quite a trooper!

She endured 37 1/2 hours of labor and delivery. All the while not allowed to have an epidural because of a very low blood platelet count.

I am so proud of her and my (apparently stubborn) nephew too!

Even though I was far, far away I felt like I was able to be a part of everything. I harassed everyone at the hospital with text messages and phone calls getting nearly hourly updates. Then passed those updates along to other family members. Definitely thankful for technology!

I think one of the most amazing things is how close I feel to the little guy that I haven't even met yet. I love all of my nieces and nephews but this is the first nephew I have on my side! There is something about your own sister (someone you grew up with) having a baby that is a different kind of exciting!

The other interesting thing is how much our little guys look alike at birth. My sister and I must carry some strong dominate traits because our little guys do look pretty similar.

My little guy was born almost 4 years ago and the phone pics were not as high quality back then!

I have some truly amazing pictures of my little guy's birth but this is the only one that positions him the same as my nephew for the comparison.

Anyway...Congratulations to my sister, her husband and baby Josiah!

My little guy is also VERY excited about his new cousin (he doesn't realize that babies don't do much)!

Patterns - Sort Of...

2012-01-27T18:49:00.000-08:00

I have been working very hard on a slew of new patterns! However, I will be keeping them all under-wraps, until every last one is completed and ready to be shared (probably in the next month or so).

An exception had to be made for one of the new patterns because the design is based off of a nursery set I designed and then made for my sister. She is having her first baby any day now!!

Of course she wants to share pictures with everyone of her now finished nursery and since I will be publishing the nursery set in a pattern I asked her not to post any pictures until I revealed the pattern.

So without further ado, here it is!

A three part nursery set. Pattern includes step by step instructions for a quilt, an adorable pleated crib skirt (in two lengths, because who wants to ditch the skirt when you drop the crib?) and two matching pillow covers!

Option A

I seem to have run into a dilemma, I cannot decide which cover I like better. The first picture or this next picture.

Option B

So, which one do you prefer? Leave me a comment to tell me which one or just vote in the box to the right.

P.S. I have a variation of this same quilt for adults that I will release soon as well. It is really fabulous! I've already made two of the adult versions and two of the baby versions.

January 2011 Tutorials in Review

2012-01-24T11:16:00.000-08:00

If you are new to my blog or just haven't been sure why I had so many tutorials last year and have had so few this year, well let me explain. At the beginning of last year I challenged myself to post one tutorial and one sewing tip every week for the entire year.

And I did it! I designed and wrote (and took step by step pictures) 52 tutorials in 2011.

I am thinking I will post a quick review each month in 2012 of the tutorials I put up in that month in 2011, unless that is annoying....let me know what you think!

Clockwise starting from the bottom left:

January 25th, 2011: Pieced Dump Truck Block tutorial

January 11th, 2011: Simply Striped Placemats tutorial

January 18th, 2011: Coasters two ways (top right and bottom right)

January 4th, 2011: Tiny Ruffle Purse

How about a Newsletter?

2012-01-18T15:02:00.000-08:00

So, I set up a newsletter now and I hope I get some subscribers! You can sign up by clicking on this link or at the enter your email address in the newsletter box on the right hand side.

Subscribe to our newsletter

I plan on sending out brand new news and specials via the newsletter! So sign up today!

My Battle with Hypothyroidism

2012-01-17T10:53:00.000-08:00

This post has been a long time in coming, mostly because I do not like to be a downer and I am also not very good at sharing negative private things about myself.

I have a chronic auto-immune disorder called Hashimoto's Thyroiditis. Auto-immune diseases are fairly common this day in age and since I am a research fanatic (seriously I may be more addicted to research than to fabric [insert gasps here] ), I do have a few theories on why this is, but that would take a whole other series of posts.

Hashimoto's is a type of hypo-thyroidism where the body attacks the thyroid. Basically, in my case, the disease is genetic and familial. My body thinks that my thyroid is the enemy and creates antibodies that attack my thyroid. I went for years without knowing what was going on, until 2010 when I ended up in the ER with dehydration and mild edema (despite the fact that I was drinking over 10, 8 oz glasses, of water a day.). Of course the ER couldn't find anything that was out of "normal range" on the tests so they filled me up with electrolytes and sent me home. That is where my journey really began.

The reason for writing this post is not to gain sympathy but to impart the wisdom and knowledge I gained onto others with a similar condition. Recently I was out with friends and one of them had been dealing with thyroid problems and treatment for years to no avail. After sharing some information with her, I decided it was time to share my story.

There is a LOT of crappy information out there regarding hypothyroidism. If you are dealing with hypothyroidism, I highly recommend going to the website, Stopthethyroidmadness.com, and then buying the book, Stop The Thyroid Madness, by Janie A. Bowthorpe.

Some other good informational websites:

www.thyroid-info.com/

http://nahypothyroidism.org/

http://www.drlowe.com/

http://www.thyroid-rt3.com/

http://adrenalsweb.org/

Here is my story:

Before I knew I was pregnant nearly 5 years ago, this line about 2 inches above my collar bone on the right side of my neck looked swollen. It didn't hurt but it was definitely this puffy line that you could see my pulse in. Having been working out daily (weights, cardio and swimming) I assumed I pulled some weird muscle and took it easy for a few days. The swollen line got smaller.

A month later I found out I was 10 weeks pregnant and went in for my first pre-natal appointment. The doctor immediately noticed the swelling on my neck and did a physical exam. It was my thyroid that was swollen. He did a blood panel and everything came back "normal". Apparently it was just a goiter and common during pregnancy. They would keep a watch on it and that was all.

Throughout my pregnancy the goiter would get very large and then really small. All the while all the doctors and specialists told me it was fine. It even freaked out some co-workers when they would see it enlarge, which was fairly amusing.

I had a healthy baby and for the most part the goiter went away after giving birth.

During the post-partum period I noticed that certain foods triggered the goiter. Broccoli, cabbage, non-organic meats and poultry, were a few items that would cause the goiter to get noticeably bigger. We cut down on those items in our diet and I tried to buy meats that said, "no added hormones." Things continued this way for almost 2 years.

Then in the early spring of 2010 my pulse started going all over the place from 50 beats per minute to 130 without me doing anything. My blood pressure was randomly dropping so low that I would almost pass out and then it would skyrocket and I would feel like my head was going to turn red then purple and explode. After about 3 days of this (all the while not having caffeine, or salt, or hormones), I ended up in the ER because my heart was starting to hurt and I noticed that I was developing edema on my legs, arms and chest. This is when they found that I was very dehydrated.

That is where my more difficult battle began. I was discharged from the ER with nothing more than, "you were dehydrated, we filled you with electrolytes. See your doctor." So I went to my doctor, they did full blood panels on everything. Everything came back "normal". I pushed for an ultrasound of my thyroid, knowing that this had been an issue AT LEAST since I was pregnant. The ultrasound found that I had a rather size-able goiter that was pushing on my trachea and I needed to see an endocrinologist (supposedly a thyroid specialist). The endo said that I should have it biopsied.

I hate biopsies. I've had some of the most painful procedures done including having blood taken from arteries several times in the same arm, and still, biopsies SUCK. But I did what I had to do, extremely nervous since they were going to have to go right next to the carotid artery to biopsy the goiter. The biopsy came back negative for cancer in the cells they got. However, the type of cells in the goiter actually rendered the biopsy inconclusive because with this type of cell the only way to tell if there was cancer or not would be to remove the goiter (and the half of the thyroid the goiter is on) and slice it apart piece, by piece to look for mutated cells.

On the one hand I was tired of feeling like I was choking and tired of feeling like crap combined with the possibility of it being cancer had me wanting my thyroid out right then, on the other hand, I had been through surgery before and was in no rush to go back under the knife.

After my first endo appoitnment, before the biopsy, I was put on synthroid because while my blood results were in the "normal range" as far as the lab determines, they were NOT normal for my age or for having a high quality of life. The synthroid mildly helped my symptoms.

While researching the cell types and thyroid surgery, I decided to continue treatment with synthroid and see if the goiter got smaller. After three months on synthroid, constantly increasing the dose to try and get my lab numbers better, the goiter had gotten bigger and a new goiter was forming on the center of my thyroid that was causing my voice to sound scratchy.

At this point, I opted for surgery and had the goiters along with half of my thyroid removed. Don't let anyone lie to you, thyroid surgery is painful and recovery sucks. You spit up all kinds of crap, including blood and the only pain medicine that was mildly helpful was morphine. I have a fairly high tolerance for pain. I mean, I got to 6 centimeters dilated while in labor without flinching, not even realizing I was in labor just assuming that it was mild cramping. However, this was a kind of indescribable pain that never let up. The only time I could sleep was when the meds they gave me (which really only made me feel disconnected from my body but still left me in pain) forced me to sleep.

Here are a few pictures immediately after surgery and a few weeks after. Scroll down past them, if this stuff freaks you out:

One day post surgery:

This is me on drugs that don't stop the pain, but space your brain out enough that it can't figure out what the heck is going on:

3 days post surgery, after getting to shower and take off the guaze.

10 days post surgery:

Six months after surgery I was still feeling tired, bogged down and just barely able to handle life. I closed my alterations and custom clothing business because it was too much. I would go to bed around 9:30 PM most nights and still not be able to get up at 8 AM. I was constantly depressed, angry or sad, that's if I felt anything at all. Most of the time feeling things took too much energy and so I lived in kind of an "ick" state.

From the April of 2008 to July of 2011 I went from weighing 135 lbs to 168 lbs even though I was eating only 800 calories a day, running most mornings (which was a feat in itself because just getting out of bed was difficult), and on thyroid medication. This certainly did not help my depression.

It's hard to explain how very down in the "depths of despair" (to put it in an Anne of Green Gables way) that I was. It was nearly impossible for me to exist. Everything I did felt like it took absolutely every ounce of energy I had in my body to do it. There were days when I was too tired to lift my arm. I cannot even tell you the number of times that I would get up, feed my toddler and then lay on his bedroom floor and sleep while he played. It's a terrible, terrible state to be in.

Finally, in January of 2011 I found the Stop the Thyroid Madness website and bought the book. I read it from cover to cover, highlighting and taking notes. Then I read it again. Then I took it to my endo who told me that the information in the book didn't matter since she was a doctor and that I had probably just developed another autoimmune disorder like fibromyalgia. Which considering my symptoms was plausible, but only if you ignored everything else about the fact that I had thyroid issues.

All this time she was only testing my TSH. She never pulled labs on my Free T3 or Free T4, these are IMPORTANT! You can learn ALL about them in the Stop the Thyroid Madness book, or on any of the website links I posted at the beginning.

When I asked this endo about my weight issues she said that I should stop eating dinner and start working out harder. How could I work out harder?! I barely had the energy to run as it was let alone work out harder! And skip dinner? Seriously? I was 800 calories a day, how was skipping a meal going to make me thinner? I may as well have been anorexic at this point and I still would've been putting on weight.

This began my search for a new endocrinologist or thyroid doctor, or anyone who would address my symptoms and know more about thyroid disease and treatment than your average endocrinologist.

I saw 4 different endocrinologists and doctors before I found a doctor that knew what I was talking about and able to help me.

In March of 2011 I started on dessicated thyroid hormone. In just 4 weeks I felt 50% better than I had in years. It wasn't enough though and when I reached 3 grains a day my lab tests were saying that I was almost hyperthyroid but my symptoms were not. I was still waking up with a very low body temperature 96 degrees. My heart was still averaging at about 70 beats per minute, my hair was still falling out and I was still tired.

After a lot of research I discovered the Reverse T3 ratio. A case where you have so much free T4 that your body starts to turn it into reverse T3 instead of usable T3. T3 is the active hormone in your blood that keeps your heart going, gives your cells and body energy, and essentially keeps you alive. T4 is just a storage hormone that your body is "supposed to" convert into life-giving T3. I had my doctor run the test for Free T3 and reverse T3 to determine The Ratio, that is a link to a ratio calculator. My ratio was around 18 so I was experiencing reverse T3 issues. I joined the reverse-t3 yahoo group to learn all about how to treat reverse T3.

I continued to do research and came across a story about a patient who had Hashimoto's and learned about LDN (low dose naltrexone). I read, and read, and read about LDN. I joined the LDN yahoo group, I bought books about LDN, like Honest Medicine by Julia E. Schopick. Great, great book by the way, Highly recommend it for EVERYONE I know.

Eventually we found a doctor who would prescribe LDN. My husband started it first for his own autoimmune disorders which he was born with (but that is a whole other story on Un-diagnosed Celiac Disease). He experienced the most amazing improvements. Within 24 hours of his first dose all of his body inflammation (had been around for 30+ years) was gone.

Knowing that I had a reverse T3 issue and an autoimmune disease I started on LDN. I started at 1.5 mg per day and increased it by .5 mg per week until I reached 4.5 mg. I actually stoped at 3.0 mg for a month or so and then decided to go up to the 4.5 mg.

Those things (the dessicated thyroid hormone and LDN) both helped A LOT! I was definitely closer to 75% better at this point. I had more energy, more feelings and just an overall more positive outlook on life.

However, we did know from the multitudes of blood tests that my vitamin D levels were drastically low. I had tried taking 50,000 IU (which is a HUGE amount) of vitamin D twice a week (by prescription) to increase my numbers. It did not do much. My vitamin D level barely increased, it went from say 25 to 26 over a three month period at this dose. Oh, and I was going outside for at least 20 minutes day in the Florida sun.

Next I changed my diet. While researching ways to raise your vitamin D I read this article on diet: http://lewrockwell.com/miller/miller38.1.html. I went on to research this idea and after a good month of reading everything I could about it, I switched our diets. We went 100% organic produce, organic grass-fed and finished meats, pasture raised poultry, and full fat dairy products.

After 2 months on this diet, my energy increased substantially. I also started getting more excited about things, like I did way before all of the thyroid stuff began. At this point I would say I was at 90% better.

Today I am at about 92%. I still have some bad days. But those days are once every 3 weeks or so instead of every. single. day.

My Reverse T3 ratio is still below 20 but I think it is improving. I will know better after my next blood tests.

Oh and did I mention that now in January of 2012 I am almost 145 lbs? Now I am just waiting for my eyebrows to grow back in, when they come back all full and healthy looking (a sign of hypothroidism is that the outer 1/3 edges of your eyebrows stop growing) I am going to let them be all bushy, at least until my husband asks me to style them!

I do wonder if I had been on dessicated thyroid instead of synthroid if my goiter would have shrunk. I wonder if I had been on LDN before synthroid if I would have needed any thryoid meds and if my goiter would have shrunk. However, I cannot live in the past, I cannot change what I knew then. I made the best decision with the information I had at the time. What I can do though, is share my story. Share the information I have and hope that it will help others who are experiencing what I experienced.

You may have to fight to get better. You may have to fight your body, fight your doctors, and fight the system for better treatment. But the fight is worth it.

I know how hard it is to fight when you are so damn tired. I know. I have been there. I remember saying to my husband while reading the STTM book that I just don't have the energy to fight. I never, ever thought I would be where I am today, but I fought and here I am. If I can do it so can you!

I didn't have to fight all alone, which helped. So if you can find someone to fight with you, I know it goes a long, long way. Even if it is just that they are standing next to you while you fight. I may not have made it without my husband helping me fight, my family flying across the country to help when I really needed it, and friends that were able to help with my toddler. So I am thankful for every bit of help I have had over the years.

And I am so thankful for the thyroid pioneers, for Dr. Broda Barnes, Dr. Lowe, Janie Bowthorpe, Mary Shomon, and so many others. I was 26 years old when this all started and I really thought my life was over, but now I know I have many years ahead of me and they are going to be great!

I hope my story can help you on your journey to wellness.

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Disclaimer: I am not a doctor and my story is not meant to be construed as medical advice. It is merely my experience. Please see your health care practitioner for medical needs.

The content of this post is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended as, or should it be considered a substitute for, professional medical advice. Do not use the information for diagnosing or treating any medical or health condition. If you have or suspect you have a medical problem, promptly contact your professional healthcare provider.

Sneak Peek

2012-01-17T07:44:00.000-08:00

Wondering where I've gone? I know, I still need to get two more tutorials up to finish up my 52 tutorials for 2011. And I will, I won't let you all down! I've just been a bit busy over here, sewing, writing patterns, making important business plans.

In the meantime, here is a little sneak peek of something I've been working on. Coming soon in a pattern I've written! ;)

So, I'm still here and I promise to bring you more designs very, very soon!

Happy Tuesday!

Some Random Etsy Stuff

2012-01-11T11:50:00.000-08:00

I am a member of the Etsytwitter team. We are a group of Etsy shop owners who promote one another on twitter. Since I am on twitter almost daily it seemed like a good fit. I have been on the team for almost 2 years and it is really great.

Here's a fun little treasury I put together featuring a few of the members work. I was going to do something for Valentine's day but I did that last year. Instead, I made a not your everyday Valentine's treasury featuring random items that remind me of couples or pairs!

Hope you see something new or something you like!

Handmade/Etsy Christmas

2012-01-08T06:57:00.000-08:00

This year I wanted all my gifts to be handmade or come from Etsy.

I know this is a bit after Christmas, but I had to wait until everyone got their gifts, before I could post them!

Then, I forgot to take pictures before I wrapped them and if you read my crazy sending this package to my family story, then you know the last thing I was going to do was unwrap everything for pictures. So I asked my sister to take the pictures for me!

First up was this amazingly beautiful sign for my sister:

Custome made by The Steel Fork. Isn't that stunning? When it arrived at my house I was even more in love with it than I imagined. In person it is really, just breathtaking.

Next up was this really sweet set of Russian Nesting dolls from Storied. My mom saw some of these at a cousin's house the last time I visited. She said how she loved them when she was a kid, so when I returned home I started searching for the perfect set. And wow! This set is FABULOUS!

When you get down to the very last one it is soo, soo, soo tiny! No, really, you think you've gotten down to the last one and there is still another. It is a stunning set and the tiniest doll (only 1/4" in size) just grabs at that "cuteness spot" deep in your belly.

Finally, I love to get stuff that my dad will "dork out" on. It is a bit of a challenge topping previous years, but this year when I was looking on Etsy I found these vintage maps from the Old Timers Club.

One is of the Western part of Pennsylvania and the other is the Eastern part. Apparently, he kept going back and looking at them throughout the day. Which is exactly what I was hoping to hear!

Giving these gifts was so much fun! I love picking out the perfect present for someone and getting to give unique handmade/vintage gifts is icing on the cake.

I hope you had a happy handmade holiday too!

Matching Patterns

2011-12-29T09:18:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Matching Patterns

So you have a fabric with a print that you LOVE! Then you find a pattern and the print looks wrong at the seams. I often get the question, "how do I match the print at the seams?"

It's not an easy task, but it is not as difficult as you may think - here's how!

1. Find the repeat in the pattern. Cut out large square/rectangular pieces, a bit bigger than the sizes you need for the pattern pieces, on the same repeats. Basically, you want to be able to lay the pieces on top of one another and have the patterns line up just like tracing paper.

See how they line up when stacked?

2. Using a fabric safe marking tool, trace the pattern pieces onto one of the fabric squares.

3. THEN using a ruler, draw a parallel line the distance of the seam allowance (1/4" - 5/8" or whatever the pattern calls for) to the Left of that first line.

4. Trace the line from step 2 on the next piece of fabric. Using the pattern piece with the seam that is supposed to be sewn to the seam line drawn in step two, draw the line as close as possible to this line.

THEN, using a ruler, draw a parallel line the distance of the seam allowance (1/4" - 5/8" or whatever the pattern calls for) to the Right of that line.

5. Cut on the seam allowance lines on each piece.

6. Line up the seams and sew the seam allowance.

7. Open seam and press! Voila! Beautiful matching patterns!

You can practice this with strips of fabric before trying it with garment pieces to make the matching easier!

Easy Even Hems

2011-12-29T09:04:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Easy Even Hems

After hemming hundreds of pants, dresses, and even shirts I have found that the easiest way to get a beautiful straight hem is to draw lines. No, really.

Some materials like acetate are very slippery and difficult to get a very even hem all the way around.

When it comes time to mark the hem, I usually place a pin in the front and back of where the hem needs to be. 1. Measure the Hem: the distance from the edge of the fabric to the fold line.

2. Take the measurement from step 1. Using a clear ruler and a fabric safe marking tool, draw a line the distance of that measurement, parallel to the edge of the fabric all around the hem.

This next step depends on what type of hem you are going to sew.

I like to do either a double fold hem or what I call, a quick enclosed hem. In the following steps I did a quick enclosed hem.

For a quick enclosed hem, I usually fold the top of the fabric down 1/4" or so, fold the hem and finish by edge stitching the hem to the garment.

3. Then draw a second parallel line below the first line. For the 1/4" enclosed hem, draw a line 1/4" up from the edge of the fabric. (For a 2" double fold hem, draw a line 1" up from the fabric edge and 1" below the line drawn in step 2.)

4. Now, fold the edge of the fabric up to meet the first line. Press. Continue this all the way around the hem.

5. Then fold the now folded edge up to meet the the top line you drew in step 2. Press and pin. Continue this all the way around the hem.

6. To finish, stitch hem in place.

Now you have even hems, pretty easy, right?

Pretty Points

2011-12-22T17:39:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Pretty Points

A lot of beginner quilters want to know how to get great points when they piece their quilts. It can be difficult to know how to keep those points from getting cut off.

The secret to pretty points is to let the points hang over the edge just a smidge (about a 1/4" smidge).

See when you sew that 1/4" seam allowance you will lose that smidge and have an amazing point!

See how when you press that seam out the extra smidge can be cut off and the point lines up with the edge.

When you have multiple points the back of your piecing will have these W looking corners.

Hope that helps some people get those pretty points they are looking for!

When you are piecing a quilt getting those first points just right are what will allow the rest of the points while piecing fall into place!

Candy Pieced: Tree Skirt Tutorial - 2

2011-12-21T20:01:00.000-08:00

My little guy saw the Christmas Candy line by Riley Blake Designs and HAD To have it. It's true, I am raising a mini fabric-aholic. So, I decided this was the perfect fabric to us to make his tree skirt!

I used his favorite prints to create a tree skirt with candy canes and trees!

Here's how to make one of your very own!

MATERIALS

1/2 Yard Print for Candy Canes
1/2 Yard Print for Trees
1 1/2 Yard Print for Background
2 Yards Print for Backing
2 Yards Fusible Fleece
5 Buttons
5 Pieces of Ribbon

CUTTING

Tree Print:

Cut 16, 4" squares
Cut 10, 4 3/8" squares (then cut in 1/2 diagonally)

Candy Cane Print:

Cut 8, 4 3/8" squares (then cut in 1/2 diagonally)
Cut 1, 4 7/8" square (then cut in 1/2 diagonally)
Cut 20, 4" squares
Cut 2, 5" x 11" strips
Cut 2, 2" x 5" strips

From the Background:

Cut 2, 4" x 11" strips
Cut 2, 4" squares
Cut 12, 4 3/8" squares (then cut in 1/2 diagonally)
Cut 1, 4 7/8" square (then cut in 1/2 diagonally)
Cut 4, 11" squares
Cut 4, 7 1/2" squares
Cut 12, 4" x 7 1/2" strips

DIRECTIONS

Sew all seams with a 1/4" seam allowance unless stated otherwise.

PART I: Create the Candy Cane Squares

1. Take the 4" squares for the candy canes and sew together 4 of them creating a 1 x 4 strip.

Repeat so that you have 4 sets.

2. Take one of the candy cane triangle prints and one of the background triangle prints and sew them to one another along the diagonal. Repeat until you have 8 of these half square triangles (HST).

3. Sew one of the HST's from previous step to the top of the strip you created in step one, so that the background triangle is on the top right and the candy cane triangle is on the bottom left.

Repeat until you have 4 strips total. Turn strips so that they go 4 high by 1 wide and the background triangle is on the top left.

4. Take the 4 7/8" triangles and sew the candy cane ones to the background one along the diagonal. Open the seam and press. Cut in half along the diagonal that is opposite of the diagonal seam you just sewed. Repeat with remaining 4 7/8" triangles.

5. Take 4 of the candy cane 4 3/8" triangles and sew to the triangles just cut in the previous step along the diagonal. Repeat until you have 4 total.

6. Turn the square from the previous step so that the background triangle in the square is the bottom and the top and sides are the candy cane material. Sew a 4" candy cane square to the top of these squares.

Repeat until you have 4.

7. Take a HST from step 2 and sew it to the right side of a 4" candy cane square, keeping the background triangle to the top right and the candy cane triangle to the bottom left. Repeat until you have 4 total.

After you are done, turn the strip so that it is 2 high and 1 wide. Then keep the background triangle at the top left.

8. Take a 4" x 7 1/2" strip to the left side of the strip from step 7. Then sew the strip from step 6 to the right side of the strip from step 7.

9. Take the set from the previous step and sew it to the top of the 11" background square.

10. Take the strip from step 3 and sew it to the right side of the set from step 9, creating a candy cane. Repeat until you have 4 candy cane squares. Set aside.

Part II: Create the Tree Squares

11. First, take 4" tree squares and sew two together creating 4 sets of 1 by 2.

12. Take 16 of the 4 3/8" tree triangles and 16 the 4 3/8" background triangles and sew together along the diagonal line. Now you will have 16 tree and background HST's .

13. Sew one 4" tree square to the left of a tree and background HST, keeping the tree triangle to the top left and the background triangle to the bottom right. Sew a 4" x 7 1/2" strip to the right of the HST.

14. Sew a tree and background HST, keeping the tree triangle to the top left and the background triangle to the bottom right, to the left side of the 2 by 1 tree strips from step 11. Then sew a tree and background HST, keeping the tree triangle to the top left and the background triangle to the bottom right, to the right side of the 2 by 1 tree strip.

15. Sew the strip from step 14 to the left side of the strip from step 13.

16. Sew a 4" x 7 1/2" strip to the top of the set from step 15. Set aside.

17. Take one background 4 3/8" triangle and sew it to the right side of one tree and background HST, keeping the tree triangle to the top left and the background triangle to the bottom right.

Keep the set with the HST to the left and the triangle to the right.

18. Sew one of the 4 3/8" tree triangles to one of the 4 3/8" candy cane triangles together along the diagonal. Repeat until you have 4 tree and candy cane HST's total.

19. Sew one of the 4" tree squares to the left of one tree and candy cane HST, keeping the tree triangle to the top left and the candy cane triangle to the bottom right. Sew a 4 3/8" background triangle to the right of the HST.

Keep the set with the tree square to the left and the background triangle to the right.

20. Sew the set from step 17 to the bottom of the set from step 19.

21. Sew a 7 1/2" square to the left side of the set from the previous step.

22. Sew the set from the previous step to the bottom of the set from step 16.

Repeat steps 11 - 22, so that you have 4 Tree Squares.

Part III: Piecing the Skirt

23. Lay out the candy cane and tree squares as follows:

Bottom row: Tree Square with the bottom angle toward the left, then a Candy Cane square then a tree square turned so that the bottom angle is to the right (there will be a 4" gap between the top of the candy cane square and the top of the second tree square).

Right row: Lay a candy cane square so that the left side of it is next to the top of the second tree square in the first row (it will close off that gap in the bottom row).

Top row: Place the top row so that it reflects the bottom row.

Left row: In the remaining open space, place the final candy cane square.

24. Sew each tree square to each candy cane square that lies to it's right side.

Then lay the squares out again like in step 23.

25. Take the 5" by 11" background strips and the 2" x 5" background strips. Sew one 2" x 5" strip to the 11" edge, lining up the 2" edge with the 5" edge. Repeat on the same 11" edge with the remaining 2" x 5" strip starting on the opposite 5" edge, leaving a 1" gap between the 2" x 5" strips.

26. Sew the open 11" edge of this piece to the top of one candy cane square, starting at the edge of the candy cane square.

27. Sew the remaining 5" x 11" strip to the other 5" sides of the 2" x 5" strips.

28. Sew the now very long edge of the center & candy cane square to the top of the edge that lines up the candy cane and tree square.

29. Now sew the top of the aligning candy cane and tree square to the side of the piece just created.

30. Now you have 3 edges all connected and just one candy cane and tree square remain.

It's time to finish the piecing of the skirt by sewing this "Y" seam. Oh, I didn't tell you would be sewing a Y seam? Well, you've come this far, guess you'll just have to do it! :) But don't worry it is not that tricky!

31. Start by lining up the shorter side, the trees square and the candy cane square. Sew the seam starting at the edge of the tree skirt and moving toward the center. STOP sewing the seam 1/4" from the end.

32. Turn the longer edge of the remaining un-sewn piece so that the seams now line up.

33. Sew the seam closed, slightly overlapping that 1/4" extra you left at the end of the previous seam with your final seam.

See, "Y" seams aren't so difficult! ;)

Part IV: Backing, Quilting & Finishing

34. Back the top with fusible fleece or batting.

35. Now you need to cut the opening so that the skirt can go around the bottom of your tree stand. I think it looks best down the center of a candy cane.

36. Carefully (and straight) cut from the outside edge in to the center hole.

37. Cut the same slit and hole in the backing.

38. Grab your buttons! Aren't these cute? I've been saving them for years and they just went so well with this skirt that I had to use them!

39. Arrange the buttons along one of the open slits on the top of the skirt. Evenly space them, starting from about 1 1/2" down from the center and then ending 1 1/2" from the outside edge.

40. On the opposite opening slit of the top, loop the pieces of ribbon and pin the open edges to the edge of the slit. Make sure each piece of ribbon, once looped, is large enough to go around your buttons, but not too large that they will just slip off. Then, stitch ribbons in place.

41. Place the top and bottom of the skirt on top of one another with right sides together. Pin. Sew along the edges of the center hole, one of the slits, all of the outer edge and then along the remaining slit, BUT leave a nice 10" opening along the final slit for turning the skirt right side out.

42. Turn the skirt right side out and press. Edge stitch around the entire skirt, closing off that turning gap.

43. Quilt as desired. Sew on the buttons so that they line up with the ribbons.

And that's it! :) One fun tree skirt all done!

Local Business Relationships

2011-12-19T12:35:00.000-08:00

I'm not really the business advice giving type. I like to sew, I like to teach people to sew and beyond that I try to keep my opinions to myself. But today I felt the need to share my small business experience with all of you!

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Sometimes it's easy to think, "I don't do any selling locally, so it's not important for me to develop relationships with local businesses."

The reality though, is that cultivating those local relationships is important for you and for your business.

My local chamber of commerce has a motto, "partners doing business with partners first." I really love being a member of my chamber. The number of people I have met and worked with is wonderful. Because of that motto, whenever I need an item or a service, I automatically go to the members of the chamber first. I have also started to employ that motto in other areas of my life as well. For example, "Handmade artists going to handmade artists first." Or, "Etsy sellers shopping on Etsy first." Or, "Local businesses going to local businesses first."

In the past, most of my business was done locally as I was a seamstress and did alterations for lots of locals. The relationships that were developed back then have helped give me strength to move forward, showed me that my work was valued and helped me to grow myself along side of growing my business.

Since closing my alterations business, most of my work is done online, but those local relationships I developed are still SO important! Whether you develop a rapport with the big man at a little office or the little man at a big business, you never know when that relationship is going to make a difference to you professionally or personally.

I once again experienced how very important those relationships are today.

Whether my business has been local or online, I have always had to visit my local Post Office. Sometimes up to four times a week. Over the years I've gotten to know almost all of the employees at my local post office. It's nice to know who you are doing business with, and there is nothing better then getting to greet one another with a genuine smile and enjoying the business you both do. Even when there is a long line at my post office, I don't mind because I know that everyone at my local post office are working hard! And that they will do their best to help me.

Today I went to the post office with my son. I had two work packages, a huge pile of Christmas cards
and a large box filled with one-of-a-kind Christmas presents for my family. Even though we got there
right after they opened, there was already a giant line! While in the line, it was suggested we go to the
much, much smaller line and use the machine to print our postage. Usually, I don't use the machine
because I like to say, Hi, to the employees and have a real person help me send out my packages.
However, today with the help of an employee we used the machine. After printing the postage, I put it
on the box and my son got to carry the box to the back, since it was too big to fit in the package roller.
Feeling accomplished my son and I said bye, gave our office a Christmas card and went on our way!

Fast forward to an hour and a half later. While at home working, I suddenly realized, I DIDN'T
LABEL MY BOX!!!! I literally ran out of my house, leaped in the car and drove to the post office as fast
as legally possible (no really I am not a speeder). After rushing into the office and waiting in line I
explained to one of the employees that I interact with regularly what happened. She calmed me down
and went in the back with my receipt. After about 8 minutes (maybe more or less, not sure my heart
was racing the ENTIRE time) she came out with my package! Whew! I got to put on the label and
now my package is on it's way and will arrive in time for Christmas.

Honestly, I have no idea if this is how it would have happened if I had no relationship with my local post office. Also, I have no desire to find out!

I have always felt that it was important to cultivate relationships with local businesses and have experienced the importance in the past.

Today was just a prime example of one of the times that having a relationship with local offices can make a huge difference in your life and the life of your business.

Sew Mama Sew Winners!

2011-12-16T17:46:00.000-08:00

And now to announce the winners from the Sew, Mama, Sew Day giveaway day!

I loved reading through all of the comments! Thank you to everyone who entered! Extra thank

you's to everyone who decided to become a follower as well!

I only wish I had enough Pure to send to every. single. one. of. you! It would be so wonderful to get to

see everyone's Pure projects!

The first winner is commenter #188:

188 - BrightAngel said...

I would love to make a sweet baby boy quilt with these fabrics. I LOVE argyle!!Nothing cuter for a little man! :) Thank you for the chance to win. :)

The second winner is commenter #165:

165 - Lyanna L. said...

Iam such a fan of sweetwater fabrics. The pure line is loads of fun. Thanks somuch sharing with us. I would use it to make a quilt for my friends baby.

Congratulations to the winners! Please send me an email to Aubrey[at]maubys[dot]net so I can get that fabric to you right away!

Sew, Mama, Sew Giveaway Day!!!

2011-12-12T11:35:00.000-08:00

I am so excited to be a part of this Sew, Mama, Sew Giveaway Day! I always seem to miss participating but not this time!

So, confession, I have been hoarding a stash of Pure fabrics by Sweetwater for Moda fabrics! Lately I have been hearing TONS of people who are looking for some Pure prints.

Since I believe that all Christmas gifts should be something that you would REALLY want, or better yet, something that the receiver would REALLY want, I have decided to share with two winners some of my Pure stash!

I have TWO sets of 14 different Fat Quarters, 14 different prints of Pure!

Each winner will also get to pick any 4 of my Mauby's patterns!

To enter just tell me what you want to sew with some PURE fabrics! :)

Winners will be drawn randomly on Friday, December 16th at 5:00 PM.

Now enter and then go back to Sew, Mama, Sew and find a whole bunch more awesome giveaways!!!!

Happy Monday!

Change Your Needle

2011-12-08T16:00:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Change Your Needles

It is soooo important to change your machine needle often!

The number of times the needle is going through threads of fabric for each project is enough to wear it down and thus slowly wear away at your machine.

To keep your stitches looking nice and clean, change your needle before each project.

One thing I like to do is remove the needle at the end of a project or when I am done sewing for the time. That way the next time I go to sew I will definitely replace the needle.

Change your needle and stitch beautiful!

Making Yo-Yo's

2011-12-08T11:00:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Making Yo-Yo's

Yo-yo's are so easy! And they are great for making holiday decor! You can glue a few together from large to small, making a slinky Christmas tree. You can stuff them before pulling closed and you will have some berries, a nose for a stuffed animal, or an added dimension to holiday quilts.

The possibilities are endless!

The technique for making yo-yo's is also great for hand gathering the center of items or making a little ruffle by hand.

1. Cut a circle.

2. Thread a needle.

3. About 1/4" from the edge of the outside, place the needle and thread. Move the needle in and out of the fabric an equal amount each time creating a running stitch.

4. When the needle is full, pull the thread through until the knot reaches the fabric.

5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you get back to where you started.

6. Pull the thread until your circle closes.

7. And that's it, stuff if desired, if not, tie off and tada!

Duckbill Appliqué Scissors

2011-12-08T04:00:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Duckbill Appliqué Scissors

Duckbill scissors are a really great tool to have when you are going to appliqué!

They let you easily trim close to the seams of appliqué without cutting holes in the fabric or accidentally snipping your stitches!

For example: In the center of this candy cane there is some fabric that needs to be trimmed.

Laying the duckbill part of the scissors flat against the fabric and getting the extra threads right in between the blades. Then snip!

See how nicely that edge was cut, all stitches intact and no worries about damaging any layers of fabric!

This is a tool you will want on your sewing items to get, especially if you appliqué!

Mitten "Stocking" Tutorial

2011-12-07T09:27:00.001-08:00

Looking for something a little different from the traditional Christmas stocking? How about a mitten?

My husband thought this looked amazing. I have to say they are pretty cute! Could you imagine a bunch of mini ones all lined up? Or filling them with candy canes? They would be great Christmas party favors stuffed with coffee beans and other chocolates!

MATERIALS

2 Fat Quarters or 1/2 yard material for Outside
2 Fat Quarters or 1/2 yard material for Inside/Lining
Scraps for appliquè
Fusible Fleece (2 pieces for backing the outside)
1/4 Yard or some large scraps of fleece for the Top

DIRECTIONS

1. Draw out a mitten shape. It doesn't have to be perfect or anything, just something you like.

2. From your mitten template cut: 2 outside pieces, 2 inside pieces, 2 pieces of fusible fleece.

3. Using the scraps, cut out some Christmas-y shapes. On the right side of one outside piece appliqué those shapes.

4. Measure the top of the mitten.

5. Cut the fleece for the top to 5" wide. Then add 3" to the top of the mitten measurement.

6. Cut four pieces of the fleece to measure 5" x the mitten measurement(step 5) +2".

7. With the 5"set as the width. The mitten measurement(step5) + 2" will be the top and bottom.

Measure in 1 1/2" from each edge of the bottom, mark.

8. Starting at the top right corner cut the edge off at an angle down to the mark on the bottom right corner. Repeat with the left side. Repeat with all 4 pieces.

9. With right sides together, lay one of the fleece pieces on top of one outside mitten piece, keeping the bottom of the fleece lined up with the top of the mitten. Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance.

10. Repeat with other outside mitten piece.

11. Turn top right side up and way from the mitten. Fuse fusible fleece to the back of each outside mitten piece.

12. Take a scrap of fleece or some ribbon about 8-12" long and fold in half. Place open ends along the right side of the outside mitten piece that will be the "back", near the bottom of the top piece and the top of the mitten piece. Baste in place.

13. Place mitten outside pieces on top of one another with right sides together. Sew along all sides, except the top of the top pieces, with a 1/2" seam allowance.

14. Clip corner seams, and round edges. Turn right side out and set aside.

15. Repeat steps 9 & 10 with the inside mitten pieces.

16. Repeat step 13 With the inside mitten pieces, only leave a 5" or so turning gap un-sewn at the bottom of the mitten. Leave inside wrong side out.

17. Place outside of mitten, inside the inside of the mitten, right sides together.

18. Line up the tops. And sew all around the tops, connecting the inside tops to the outside tops, with a 1/2" seam allowance.

19. Pull the outside of the mitten through the turning gap in the inside of the mitten.

20. Tuck in the edges of the turning gap on the outside of the mitten and then sew closed.

21. Tuck the inside of the mitten stocking into the outside of the mitten stocking.

22. Fold the top over to give it that finished "cuffed" look!

And that's it! Something a little different but still ready to fill with treats.

Christmas Tree Skirt 1 - Tutorial

2011-11-29T13:25:00.001-08:00

I have needed a tree skirt for my tree since, well, since I bough this tree!

However, I do have a mild obsession with my tree. It is color coordinated, right DOWN to the wrapping paper. So the tree skirt had to coordinate as well.

Amy Butler's new Lark line had a beautiful set of blue prints. Plus, bonus the one print looks to me like ornaments my Grandma had. Then to make it a bit more Christmas-y, I got some sweet coordinating snowflakes and a winter like print.

Now that I had chosen the prints, I needed to design a tree skirt that I would LOVE!

And here it is:

Here is a tutorial, showing you how to make your own!

MATERIALS:

1 Yard of two coordinating prints (Lark prints in mine)
1/2 Yard of two more coordinating prints (Snow prints in mine)
1 1/2 Yards batting or fusible fleece
1 1/2 Yards backing fabric
Drunkard's Path Templates:

DIRECTIONS:

1. Decide what print from the 1/2 yard sets that you want to be in the center and what print you want to be near the outside: From the Top Of Drunkard's Path template cut 4 for the center and 8 for the outside.

2. Decide what print from the 1 yard sets that you want to be in the center and most of the outside (mine is Lark Ocean Treasure Box) and what print that you want to be only on the outside (mine is Lark Midnight Sparkle): Cut 16 pieces for center and outside from the Bottom of Drunkard's Path and cut 8 pieces for the only outside print.

3. Sew 4 of the outside and inside Bottom of Drunkard's Path pieces to the 4 inside Top Of Drunkard's Path. ** For help on sewing curved seams (you can totally do it!) go to my Tailoring Thursday™ .

4. Turn these pieces so that the corner of the inside piece is to the left and the outside piece is along the top and right. Measure in and down from what is now the top right corner 1 1/2" and mark.

5. Line up a ruler from line to line at an angle and cut.

6. Place two of these pieces together, turn one inside corner up to the right and one up to the left, then line up the sides and the angles just cut so that there is a triangle along those angles. Sew along that seam witha 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat with remaining 2 pieces.

7. Line up the long edge where the triangles and center will be, sew with a 1/4" seam allowance along ONLY one seam from edge to center. Leave the other seam from center to edge UNSEWN.

8. Now sew the 8 outside only prints of the Bottom of Drunkard's Path to the 8 outside only prints of the Top Of Drunkard's Path.

9. Take 2 of the squares just sewn and turn the inside corner piece of one square up to the right and the other with the inside corner piece of one square up to the left. Keeping the inside corners like that, sew the outside edge seams together with a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat with 2 more sets of 2 squares. So that you have 3 of these sets total.

10. Take the remaining two squares from step 8 and keeping the inside piece with the corner to the left, sew the bottom of that piece to the edge to the top of one of the squares that is to the left of the open seam from step 7 with a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat keeping the other square with the inside corner to the top right and sew it to the top of the square that is to the right of the open seam.

11. Sew one of the sets from step 9, keeping the inside corners pointing away from the center, to the edge of the center square that is opposite of the open seam edge with a 1/4" seam allowance.

11. Take another set from step 9, keep it so that the corners of the inside pieces are pointing up and out to the sides and the Top Of Drunkard's Path edges are on the bottom. Take one of the outside and inside Bottom of Drunkard's Path pieces and with the corner down and lined up with the bottom corner of the left side of the pieces from step 9 and sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat with another piece on the right side.

Repeat with another piece from step 9 and two more of the Bottom of Drunkard's Path pieces.

12. Take two of the remaining Bottom of Drunkard's Path pieces and sew together along one of the edges with a 1/4" seam allowance creating a half circle. Repeat 2 times, for a total of 3 half circles.

13. Take the pieces from step 11, line up the center seam of the half circles and the top pieces and sew with a 1/4" seam allowance.

14. Sew one piece from step 13 to the edge of the center piece that is perpendicular to the opening.

15. Sew the remaining piece from step 13 to the opposite side of step 14.

16. Sew the remaining half circle to the only side without a half circle that is NOT the side with the opening in the skirt.

17. Take the remaining Bottom of Drunkard's Path pieces and with a 1/4" seam allowance, sew one to each edge of the squares on the sides of opening so that you are creating a half circle that is split in the middle along the opening.

18. Now you can quilt as desired and bind OR back the pieced skirt with fusible fleece or batting.

19. Place the finished pieced top against the backing with right sides together, and sew along the center, one of the opening edges, all around the outside edge, and THEN sew along the other opening side partway leaving a 10" turning gap.

20. Trim off excess backing. Cut corners to remove bulk and clip seams near tight corners and along rounded edges.

21. Turn right side out through opening.

22. Poke out all corners and rounded edges. Press.

23. Edge stitch around entire outside, opening edges and open center.

Quilt as desired.

Voila!

I LOVE it!!!

So happy I finally have a color coordinated skirt for my color coordinated tree -- yes, I am crazy. :)

Sewing for the Holidays

2011-11-28T18:12:00.001-08:00

On top of writing patterns from a pile of sketches I have, writing tutorials, and getting ready for my nephew, I've also been sewing for Christmas! In my spare time (the little bits I find in a day), I've been working on these:

My mom sent me a bunch of fabric yardage. Who knows when they are from -- she bought them some time ago and was going to make them, but eventually the sets ended up in the bottom of some of her fabric containers.

Each set of yardage has a different project on it. Cut out the pattern printed on the fabric and then the instructions are also on the fabric. This set is cute little red-nosed reindeer. I also have a hanging Santa and a Snowman set.

I am hoping to get each set done before Christmas....we shall see!

This is the first year I am really sewing stuff for my own Christmas! Usually I am busy sewing presents, so this is pretty exciting over here!

Are you sewing anything for the holidays?

Happy Holiday Sewing!

Grinch Advent Calendar Tutorial

2011-11-26T06:18:00.001-08:00

Today's Tutorial is posted on the Fat Quarterly Blog! Go check it out here: http://www.fatquarterly.com/be-our-guest-aubreys-grinch-advent-calendar.html

Fussy Cutting

2011-11-24T00:00:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Fussy Cutting

Fussy cutting is just like it sounds: being fussy about what you are cutting. No really. Fussy cutting is the act of cutting out specific items in a piece of fabric, instead of accepting strips and squares from fabric randomly.

Here is how to fussy cut around one object for something like appliquè.

1. This is the whole piece of fabric and I want to cut out just the Cindy Lou Who.

2. So first I just cut around the object I want to fussy cut.

3. Then go in for a closer cut.

You can also cut a larger piece of material out and it is still fussy cutting. It is all about cutting out a very specific point in the fabric instead of just cutting it in strips.

1. Here is a large piece of fabric. In this case, I wanted to get the Merry Grinchmas on one piece and then some of the characters.

2. And here is my fussy cut. It has the words Merry Grinchmas, Cindy Lou Who, the Grinch, and Max the dog, all with enough room around the edges for sewing a 1/4" seam allowance.

Another case of fussy cutting is on my dump truck block. I fussy cut the wheels in this picture, making sure that dump trucks were clearly in the center of the wheels.

And that's fussy cutting!

Re-Usable, Embroidered Paper Towels (Sewing Tutorial)

2011-11-22T17:00:00.000-08:00

We used to go through a LOT of paper towels, many more than I would like to admit!

Even though we used the select a size (smaller paper towels), it still seemed like an awful waste.

To make up for using too many paper towels, we switched to cloth diapers for spills, dusting, cleaning mirrors, and other cleaning uses. But for everyday kitchen things like draining oil, wiping up a few drops of water from the counter, or other similar situations we were still using paper towels.

That's when it occurred to me that I could remake flat cloth diapers into paper towels!

With just a touch of added embroidery we have cute, re-usable paper towels.

MATERIALS

1 Flat Birdseye Cloth Diaper
Matching Thread
Fabric Marking tool
Embroidery Floss

DIRECTIONS

1. Fold the diaper in half lengthwise and press.

2. Cut along the fold line.

3. Using a rotary cutter and mat, cut both layers into 4 sections, each 6" - 6 1/4" wide.

4. Sew a rolled hem or a double fold 1/2" hem on each raw edge.

5. Using a fabric safe marking tool, draw the words, pictures, or other design onto the sections.

6. Embroider as desired. I used a split stitch.

And tada! A beautiful, washable, re-usable, eco-friendly paper towel!

The embroidery just adds a touch of beauty. You could even monogram them with the first initial of your last name to give that modern Victorian-era feel!

It can be fun to be "green"!

All About Cloth Diapering!

2011-11-21T05:00:00.000-08:00

Hi, it's Brooke from Brookiellen Designs! My dear friend Aubrey has asked me to write up a little post describing my personal experience with cloth diapers, and so here it is!! Chock full of information, I didn't want to leave anything out. If you have any other questions, just leave a comment and I will do my best to respond!

When I made the choice to cloth diaper my first son a little over three years ago, I was met with funny faces, rude comments, disbelief that I would actually be able to do it, and just overall negativity. It's kind of funny how it turned out, because as you know I am now selling my own diaper covers- and it all started because I decided to cloth diaper Cash!

Fast forward to now, and I can tell you that MOST of my mommy friends are cloth diapering- the number seems to be rising with every new baby born!

Let me just start by saying, it is NOT hard to do. Most people think it requires just too much effort. It requires about as much effort as doing regular laundry. And for me, the benefits (no chemicals, no heaping piles of trash, no blowouts, etc) make that little bit of extra effort completely worth it. It is also ridiculously cheaper than disposables- especially when you have multiple kids!! People also complain that it is just gross. How is it grosser than throwing out thousands of stinky, dirty diapers into your trash to go to a landfill to decompose for 500 years? Also, the gross factor definitely goes down when you have one of these babies...but more on that later!

There are several types of cloth diapers out there on the market today, but I'm going to talk about what I use the most: pocket diapers and of course, prefolds or fitteds with a cover. For information on other types of diapers, check out Simple Organic, specifically this post.

Pocket diapers are made of two layers, the waterproof layer & a suede cloth (or similar fabric) layer. The inner layer wicks the moisture away into the insert that is stuffed in between the layers. And the waterproof layer keeps everything inside the diaper. This is a pocket diaper I made for West:

While I do love the pocket diapers, my absolute favorite diaper is a prefold or fitted diaper with a fun waterproof cover.  This is what got me hooked on cloth diapering from the start and it is by far the cheapest way to cloth diaper your baby!!  The prefold diaper is a rectangle that you have to fold on to your baby and either use pins or a snappi to keep it secure (the one pictured has a snappi).

image is from simpleorganic.net

You can also just fold it so that it is one long rectangle (called Trifolding) and lay it into your diaper cover. Personally, I wouldn't recommend using the kind of prefolds you can get at Target or Walmart or BabiesRus- they should not even be called cloth diapers. The Chinese, Indian or Diaper Service Quality prefolds are the absolute best. The difference in absorbance is huge!!

The fitted diaper is contoured around the legs and sometimes the back waist, and can be secured with pins, snappis, or some even come with snap or velcro closures. Here is a fitted diaper I made for West:

We mostly use fitteds around here now because my son is unbelievably hard to change. A great thing about prefolds? You can easily convert them into fitteds- I did!!

Finally, you need a cover to keep everything inside that prefold or fitted diaper. And it would help if the cover was super cute right?

This is how I got started making covers. The package I had purchased only came with the bare minimum of covers, so unless I wanted to wash them every other day, I needed to get a few more. But I just couldn't find what I was looking for in prints...so I decided to try to make some. This was my first one:

There are tons of other different cover options out there as well, such as fleece and wool. I haven't really used fleece, but the wool does work- one of my dearest friends made this amazing wool soaker for me when Cash was born:

Ok so now that I've talked about WHAT I use, here is my cloth diapering "routine:"

1. Change baby's diaper. Pee diapers go right into the wetbag, but if there is any solid poop, I use my AMAZING diaper sprayer to clean it off in the toilet. I never used a sprayer while diapering Cash and I seriously don't know why!!! It is so worth the $$, plus you can also use it as a bidet or to clean off your doggies in the tub!

2. Put everything, including fabric wipes if you use them, into a hanging wetbag such as this one made by yours truly! Mine is attached to the towel rack in our bathroom.

3. When the bag is full (I have a couple of bags, so I usually do diaper laundry every 3 days or so), take it down to the washer and dump everything in, INCLUDING your wetbag. For most pocket diapers, you have to remove the inserts from the shell so they get clean. But you can wash everything together-covers, inserts, prefolds and fitted diapers.

4. I wash my diapers in two cycles. The first cycle is a cold/cold cycle with no detergent.

5. The second cycle is a hot/cold cycle WITH detergent. I use homemade detergent, but there are a ton of cloth diaper safe detergents on the market. The key is finding something that has no fabric softener (ruins the fibers of the diapers, making them less absorbent) and something that gets your diapers super clean. We have used Rockin Green Soap in the past, as well as All Free and Clear and Arm & Hammer Essentials Free. The homemade detergent works best for us though. You can do a google search for homemade laundry detergent recipes- there are so many out there!!

6. When the second cycle is finished, take out your covers, pocket diaper shells and wet bags and hang them to dry. When the weather is nice I put EVERYTHING out on the line (the sun does wonders for stains!), but when it is too cold or rainy, I have a drying rack in my laundry room where I hang my covers, wetbags, & pocket shells.

7. Put all of your inserts, diapers and wipes into the dryer and dry on high heat (or if it is nice out and you have a line, you can hang them to dry).

8. You are all done! Time to put them away and start using them again!

It really is not hard to get started. With all of the amazing products out there today, you are sure to find something that fits your needs. And like I said, this is just my personal method- you can tailor it to fit your needs. The best thing about this is that there is NO set way, you just do it and along the way, figure out what is best for you. I hope I've been helpful to first time cloth diaperers, or those who are contemplating it. If you have ANY questions at all, leave a comment here or you can email me at brookiellendesigns@gmail.com.

Super Absorbent, Monogrammed Baby Bib

2011-11-20T01:00:00.000-08:00

Really cute bib and it's oh so functional! Made from multiple layers of a flat birdseye cloth diaper, it can absorb a lot and is also nice and soft!

MATERIALS

1 Flat Birdseye Cloth Diaper
1 Fat Eighth (or a 9" x 11" piece of fabric)
Bib Template
1/2" piece of 1" wide hook and loop fastener

DIRECTIONS

1. Take the cloth diaper and press.

2. Fold in half length wise.

3. Then fold in half width wise.

4. Place the bib template on the center of the folded diaper.

5. Separate the bib cut outs into 2 sets of 2. Cut out the same bib template (place it upside down on

the correct side of the fabric) from the fat eighth and place on the bottom of 2 of the bib cuts. Baste around the entire outer edge.

6. Baste remaining 2 bib cuts together around the entire outer edge.

Cut out a letter for the monogram from the left over fat eighth scraps and appliquè it to the side or center of the bib. For instructions on appliquè click here.

7. Place the two bib pieces with right sides together (fabric side against monogrammed side).

8. Sew with a 1/4" - 3/8" seam allowance around the entire edge, leaving a 1 1/2" turning gap at the bottom.

9. Turn bib right side out through turning gap.

10. Press bib thoroughly on both sides.

11. Edge stitch round the entire edge of the bib, closing off the turning gap.

12. Take the 1/2" piece of loop and place it on the end tip of the upper right neck band.

13. Stitch loop in place.

14. Turn bib over and place the hook on the end tip of what is now the upper right neck band (it is the left neck band when the bib is right side up).

15. Trim the corners so that the hook is not hanging over the edges of the neck bands. Stitch in place.

And Voila!

You have a beautiful, handmade baby gift!

Practical, modern, stylish and almost as sweet as the baby that will wear it!

Quilt Sleeves: How to Make 'em. How to Attach 'em.

2011-11-17T16:35:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Making and Attaching Quilt Hanging Sleeves

When you make a wall hanging quilt, you will need to attach a sleeve. You can buy sleeves,but it is really easy to make one as well.

After the quilt is quilted and bound measure the width on the top back of the quilt.

This will be the length of your hanging sleeve.

The width of the sleeve will depend on the size of your hanging hardware: like a curtain rod or a flat piece of pressed wood. I usually go with a minimum width of 6" and a maximum width of 12".

In this picture I went with 18" x 6" piece of fabric for my hanging sleeve.

1. Fold over each shorter edge 1/4" and then fold over 1/4" again enclosing the raw edge.

2. Edge stitch those folded seams.

3. Fold strip in half lengthwise, right sides together and press.

4. Sew, or serge, with a 1/4" seam allowance, creating a tube.

5. Turn sleeve right side out.

6. Center sleeve on the top back of the quilt about 1 - 2" down from the top edge. Keep the seam at the center back and against the quilt.

7. Thread a needle. Under the end of the sleeve pull the needle and thread in between the quilt layers.

8. Then pull the thread through the sleeve, starting a running stitch.

9. Pull thread back in between the quilt layers. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until you get to the end of sleeve. Tie off end of the thread with a french knot.

10. One of the lengthwise edges will now be attached to the back of the quilt.

11. Repeat steps 7, 8, and 9 with the other lengthwise edge of the sleeve.

12. And voila! Your sleeve is full attached and your quilt is ready to be hung!

Hook and Loop Fastened Padded Camera Strap Cover

2011-11-11T08:00:00.000-08:00

My sister is a photographer and I have made her some padded strap covers. However the ones I have made all just slip over the strap. So in order to put it on you have to unhook the strap and slide the cover on.

The problem is that my sister often does shoots with her husband and he finds my padding to be a bit to girly. So my sister thought it would be easier if the strap cover could come on and off easier.

That is why I designed this cover to use hook and loop cross the opening. The cover can be put on and taken off the strap without having to unhook the strap.

MATERIALS

2, 7" x 22" Strips of Cotton Fabric
2, 6" x 21" Strips of Fusible Fleece
1 20 1/2" Strip of 1" wide Hook and Loop

DIRECTIONS

1. Fuse fleece to the center back of fabric pieces.

2. Draw a line 1" down from the 22" edge of the fabric along one entire 22" edge of each fabric piece.

3. Line up the length wise edge of the hook with the line you just drew. The edge of the velcro should be in about 3/4" from the 7" edge.

4. Sew the hook to the fabric. Repeat step 2 - 4 with the other piece of fabric.

5. Place the fabric pieces on top of one another, right sides together. The hook and the loop should each be on the opposite side of one another.

6. Sew along the 22" edge with a 1/4" seam allowance.

7. Turn it right side out.

8. Fold the 8" ends in 1/2". Press.

9. Edge stitch closed.

10. Now the padded strap cover is ready to be wrapped around the strap.

11. Place the strap at the edge of the padded cover.

12. Fold the edge near the strap and fold the strap and the edge of the padding over.

13. Fold the opposite edge over and meet the hook and loop together, enclosing the strap.

And that's it! You can dress it up with buttons, ribbons & bows -- Oh My! :)

Specialty Seams: Bound Edges

2011-11-10T20:00:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Bound Edge Seams

Another specialty seam used in garment sewing is where you bind the edges of the seam. This great for fabrics that easily fray or may not have a clear edge, like lace.

1. Draw your seam allowance line on the wrong side of one piece of fabric.

2. Take your binding pieces (I usually cut them out 1 1/2" x the length).

3. Fold in half wrong sides together. Press.

4. Open at the fold and fold in the raw edges to meet at the center fold. Press.

5. Fold in half, enclosing the raw edges. Press.

6. Place the binding around the seam of one piece of fabric.

7. Edge stitch along the edge of the binding sewing both sides of the binding to the fabric edge at once.

8. Repeat with all edges of the fabric that will become the seam allowance.

9. Place fabric pieces right sides together.

10. Sew on top of the line you drew in the first step.

Open the seams! And, voila! Some nice bound seam allowance edges.

Specialty Seams: Enclosed Garment Seam

2011-11-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Enclosed Garment Seam

Another specialty seam that I enjoy using on garments is an enclosed seam. This is especially great for silk clothing.

1. On the wrong side of ONE of the sides draw a line 5/8" from the edge (or whatever your seam allowance is).

2. Place both pieces of fabric wrong sides together.

3. Sew together with a 1/4" seam allowance.

4. Open the seam.

5. Turn fabric around, fold fabric at seam, right sides together.

6. Sew on the line you drew in the first step.

7. Then Open the seam.

And there you have it -- an beautiful enclosed seam!

The Ultimate Re-Usable Snack Bag: Machine Washable and Stands Upright

2011-11-08T18:19:00.000-08:00

The loops are great for opening the bag and for hanging from those rings for kids -- making it easy for little ones to snack too!

Isn't this a cute bag? Stylish and practical!

Brooke was making re-usable snack bags from leftover Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) she had from making her amazing diaper covers! I asked if it was ok if I made some for a local craft fair and then posted the rest in my Etsy shop. Since I first made those I have improved my own bags and LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this design!

These pouches are shaped super cute and stand on their own.

Perfect for bringing to the office, play date or on the go!

And seriously, I know I've said it before but I adore this heirloom line of fabric by Joel Dewberry. Every time I make something else with it, I fall in love all over again. The pictures just cannot do it justice.

MATERIALS

2, 8" x 9" Rectangles of Cotton Quilting Fabric
2, 3" x 8" Scraps of Coordinating Fabric
2, 4" Pieces of Ribbon
2, 8" x 9" Rectangles of Polyurethane Laminate (PUL)

**Please note: Several people have commented that PUL is not considered "food safe" by the FDA. You can decide for yourself if you want to use PUL or another lining that one feels is "food safe".

8" Piece of Hook and Loop

DIRECTIONS

1. Take the 8" x 9" pieces of fabric. The 8" is the width, and the 9" is the height. Cut out a 2" square from the bottom of the right and left each rectangle.

2. Take the 3" x 8" strips of fabric and fold them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.

3. Line up the raw edges of the folded strip with the top of the right side of one of the 8" x 9" rectangles. Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance.

4. Repeat with the remaining rectangle.

5. Set aside both pieces.

6. Take the pieces of PUL and repeat step 1 with them. Then measure 1" down from the top of one and sew the hook strip to it. Repeat with the remaining PUL piece and the loop strip.

7. Place one of the PUL pieces on top of one of the cotton pieces, right sides together, tops on tops, and bottoms on bottoms. Sew along the top seam ONLY with a 1/4" seam allowance.

8. Open the seam and press. Press the seam on the back down toward the PUL and the strip on top of the cotton down toward the cotton fabric. Repeat steps 7 and 8 with the other cotton fabric and PUL pieces.

9. Place the pieces just created in step 7 & 8 on top of one another, right sides together. Place the cotton fabric on top of the cotton fabric and the PUL on top of the PUL. The hook and loop will connect.

10. Sew down both long sides, from the top of the 2" PUL corner to the top of the opposite 2" cotton fabric corner, with a 1/4" seam allowance.

11. Sew along the entire bottom edge of the cotton fabric, from the edge of the 2" square to the edge of the opposite 2" square with a 1/4" seam allowance. Do NOT sew the square corners.

12. Go to the PUL and sew only beginning and end of the bottom piece from corner to corner, leaving a 2" turning gap, in the center for turning right side out.

Now it's time to make those nice square corners!

I often use a different method for making square corners, but it doesn't always make the most even or square corners(see step 6 in this tutorial). This is another method that I often forget about but that was reinforced recently by Trish over at Two Peas in a Pod Designs!

13. Grab each corner of the cut square and pull them out away from one another, bringing the side seams toward one another and nesting them together.

14. Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance.

15. Repeat with the PUL corners.

16. Turn bag right side out, going through the turning gap left in the bottom of the PUL, pull the fabric and PUL through the turning gap.

17. Along the turning gap, tuck the edges of the PUL in about 1/4" - 1/2" and pin.

18. Sew the opening closed.

19. Tuck the PUL into the cotton fabric creating a bag.

20. Fold one ribbon in half.

21. Find the center of the side of the bag and tuck the ribbon under the flap at the center. Tuck the raw edges of the ribbon all the way up to the seam. Pin the ribbon in place.

22. Stitch along the top of the bag with a 1/4" seam allowance.

23. Stitch around the top of the bag another 1/4" in from the previous stitching.

24. Repeat step 23 over and over until you get to the end of the flap.

25. And Viola! One super cute bag!

The ribbons make this bag super easy to open. Put one finger from each hand in the center of each loop.

Then pull them away from one another, opening the bag.

Snack Time!

Yummy!

Last Sewline Winner

2011-11-04T13:13:00.000-07:00

And now it's time to announce the LAST winner of a sewline mechanical pencil!

The winner drawn from the comments left on my previous post on flat felled seams was commenter #2,

Heidi said...

My two sisters and myself were the 3 blind mice for Halloween one year, costumes made by my mom. Wish I had a picture.

Thanks for all your great info you share!

Email me your info to aubrey [a] maubys.net to claim your sewline mechanical pencil!

Many, many thanks to Fat Quarter Shop for sponsoring my series which featured the sewline mechanical pencils!

Thanks to everyone else who followed, commented & entered to win! Hope you all stick around for more of my sewing tips and tutorials!

Happy Halloween!

2011-11-01T15:51:00.000-07:00

Nothing like waiting until the LAST minute to put together my little man's Halloween costume!

I put together the shirt and pants by taking the sleeve, shirt and pants pattern pieces and piecing them together with blue and red knits.

I drew and cut out the appliquè on the front and back.

Then I hand stitched/embroidered all of the webbing on the red, which is a bit uneven because I was definitely rushing (only had 3 days to get it all done). After trick or treating I actually wasn't sure what to do with myself because every spare moment I had prior to it was spent back stitching webs! :)

Oh, and embroidering on knit is difficult!

Finally, I finished the bottom of the pants with spats! Last year my husband explained that spats are shoe covers. These spats worked out GREAT! And I think I will put together this weeks tutorial explaining how to make them.

We had a great halloween! I hope you all did too! If you made any decorations or costumes post some links I WANT to see!!!

Go Bananas!

2011-10-28T11:35:00.000-07:00

While working on my squash door stops & pincushions, I kept a banana peel. See, working out how to sew three dimensional objects can be really difficult. Originally I wanted to make an heirloom zucchini as one of my squashes and a banana peel seemed like it would help me figure out how to design the curved edges.

After a lot of finagling I realized that a fabric zucchini just wasn't cute..haha.

However in the process, I did come up with some REALLY cute bananas!

Another advantage to having a bunch of bananas as pincushions is that you can keep each different type of pin or needle on a separate banana.

Little man even has tried to claim the bananas as his own!

MATERIALS

Scraps of three different fabric prints (about 1 fat eight of each fabric to make 5 bananas).
Matching thread
Poly Fil, emery sand
Hand stitching needle
PATTERN PIECES

DIRECTIONS

1. Cut out the banana pieces from the pattern provided. Trace them onto the top of your fabric scraps right side up. Trace each piece onto it's own fabric print.

2. Keep the pattern pieces by it's fabric print after cutting it out.

3. Write the corresponding numbers on the pattern onto the BACK of the fabric prints.

4. With right sides together, line up the edges labeled as #1 and pin around the entire edge. You may have to stretch one slightly and turn the fabric a bit, since the edges turn in different directions.

5. Sew the #1 edges with a 1/4" seam allowance.

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 with the #2 edges.

7. Now the three pieces are attached and you have just the #3 seam left. Pin the edges together and remember to leave a 1" turning gap near the center of the seam.

Sew all the way around the curve, finishing off the bottom edge of the banana.

8. Turn fabric right side out through turning gap.

9. Stuff banana with some emery sand and poly-fil or just poly fil. Leave the top of the banana unstuffed, that way it will really look like a banana stem.

10. Close off turning gap with a slip stitch.

11. Repeat steps 1 through 10, four times so that you end up with 5 bananas!

12. We will be arranging the bananas in a bunch just like a real set of bananas!

Take three bananas and line them up side by side.

13. Starting in the right side of banana farthest to the right put the needle and thread through about 1/2" down from the end of the stem. Pull the needle through to the other side, then gently tug the knot through ONLY the right edge.

14. Pull needle and thread through the next banana at the same place, then push it back through the first one and back through the second one again.

15. Sew on the third banana in the same way.

16. Repeat the method of sewing the three bananas together with the two bananas that will rest on top of the three. Then in a similar fashion, sew the two bananas to the tops of the three bananas.

Voila! Some more fruity pincushions to add to your collection!

Flat Felled Seams

2011-10-27T05:21:00.000-07:00

Tailoring Thursdays™, Tips, Tricks and Techniques for Sewers

Flat Felled Seams

My fourth and final post featuring the Sewline Mechanical Pencils! Read to the end for the giveaway!

However it is my first post on specialty seams.

Have you ever wondered how to sew a flat felled seam? (In case you weren't sure, the inside hem of your jeans is most likely a flat felled seam.)

Flat felled seams are a beautiful way to enclose a seam and is especially nice for garments. Contrary to popular belief, flat felled seams can be rather easy even for a novice sewer.

I love to use a fabric marking utensil (especially my sewlines!) for this seam method.

1. Draw a line on the wrong side of the fabric that will be enclosed in the seam, 1/2" in from the edge. Draw a line on the right side of the fabric that will enclose the seam, 1/2" in from the edge.

Fabric to be enclosed.

2. With right sides together, line up the edge of the enclosed fabric with the line drawn on the enclosing fabric. Pin in place.

3. Sew on the line on the fabric to be enclosed.

4. Press seam to one side.

5. Fold enclosing fabric around the enclosed fabric and press.

6. Press seam to the side so that the edge of the enclosing fabric is now enclosed as well.

7. Edge stitch along the folded edge of the enclosing fabric on top of the enclosed fabric.

8. Press and voila! Easier than you thought, Right? Right?

Have fun sewing beautiful seams!

And now for the giveaway!

Want to win your own Sewline Mechanical Pencil?

To enter:

1. Leave a comment telling me your BEST Halloween story!

2. Like the Fat Quarter Shop on facebook, come back & leave a comment saying you followed them for another chance to win!

Winners will be drawn this Wednesday November 2nd.

Giveaway sponsored by Fat Quarter Shop

Sewline Winner!

2011-10-26T17:26:00.000-07:00

Winner from the Hand-Piecing post was commenter #1!

SuzyMcQ said...

Hand-piecing tut was fantastic! I've wanted one of the Sewline pencils forever!

Email me your info to Aubrey [@] maubys.net to claim your prize!

New Pattern and the Tie Tote Winner

2011-10-25T18:42:00.000-07:00

I've been working on this pattern so hard to get it out just in time for Fall!

Squash Stops (I just thought that name was so clever, even if I've been made fun of for it.):

Shaped Door Stops & Pincushions!!!

The idea struck me when I watched my dad use a neck warmer pack that I made him as a door stop. You can gasp here if you want, I did!

And here they are, the initial idea in actual form. Sometimes the process of taking an idea and turning it into an object/pattern is a lot harder and longer than you can imagine.

Pretty darn cute right?

I LOVE them, seriously, all the pain and torture (including the tragic phallic looking objects that were the result of some first prototypes) was worth it, because it brought about these wonderful, whimsical, fall door stops!

Five different squashes!

All in one pattern & the pattern includes not just doorstops but also....

These ADORABLE pincushions!!!!

My house feels so full of fall, I only wish Florida felt as much like fall as where I grew up in the Northeast!

What do you think? Am I crazy, or are they fabulously fall!? Oh and the fabric is from the Heirloom line by Joel Dewberry. LOVE. IT.

And now for the winners for the Tie Tote Class!

# 6:

Lindsay said...

I also follow your blog :)

#12:

Carla G said...

I'm a follower of your blog via gfc! :)

Email me at Aubrey [a] Maubys.net to get your class registrations! Happy Sewing!!!

Show and Tell!

2011-10-23T06:37:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I asked on Twitter: "I've been thinking about making a flickr group so that people could post pictures of items they make from my tutorials. Should I?"

There was a resounding, Yes you should!

See, I've been wanting to see everyone's projects. I love to see what people do with my tutorials & patterns. Getting to see people's work is one of the best parts of writing sewing how-to's and teaching!

So I created a group on Flickr for you to come show off your projects! One of the best parts of crafting (and sewing) is getting to "show and tell" your work, right?

Please come and share your work. I CANNOT wait to see it!

http://www.flickr.com/groups/1755096@N25/pool/